A wondrous pleated cape-effect gown inspired by the final scene of Lucia di Lammermoor at La Scala in 1955, recalls the airy, sleek designs of Belle Époque stage drama. Dresses in flattering bodycon designs work like a second skin, straps cross over and embosom the bodice resembling chain links, while perfectly round embroidered pearls bring in the 3D element. Elaborate Armenian fringing acts as an extension of the seams of the garments, underlining their structural lines. Peek-a-boo trench coats in traditional longline shapes are standing out accented with accordion pleating at the back, or re-imagined in bomber silhouettes with exaggerated collars for extra warmth. Ignoring the constraints of classical tailoring, straight-leg pants made of drill wool fall to cropped hems along with their coordinating cropped jacket. An oversized paisley panel adorns the back of a blazer, whilst paisley cut-outs serve as armholes in voluminous capes, allowing liberty of movement.
